Words and photos: Kosta Giannopoulos
This remarkable track has a quirky origin story, reminiscent of a classic Australian film like “The Castle.” In the 1970s, local farmer John “Goog” Denton and his wife Jenny, gazed north from their property and, fueled by curiosity, decided to forge a path into the unknown.
What began with a grader eventually required a bulldozer to conquer the challenging terrain. The government tried to stop them because it wasn’t their land, but the track’s potential was quickly recognized by other locals, whose support – both moral and financial – contributed to its completion. Denton’s efforts unveiled a breathtaking landscape of salt lakes and the impressive Mount Finke.
Planning your journey
For those travelling from Adelaide, Lake Gilles offers a convenient overnight stop and a preview of the salt lakes that characterize the region. The Googs Track itself begins just north of Ceduna, renowned for its world-class oysters – a must-try for any visitor.
Before embarking on the track, ensure your vehicle is equipped for the journey. Lower your tyre pressure to approximately 20psi to navigate the sandy terrain. The track stretches over 170km, traversing approximately 370 sand dunes, often likened to a “mini Simpson Desert.” While experienced 4WD enthusiasts may find the track relatively easy, it’s crucial not to underestimate its challenges.
Essential considerations
Remember, the Googs Track is remote. There are no facilities for fuel, food, or water, and phone reception is limited to the top of Mt Finke. Thorough preparation is essential. Although the track is recommended to be travelled from south to north, some adventurers choose the opposite direction. A sand flag is highly recommended to alert oncoming vehicles when cresting dunes. Utilize CB channel 18 to communicate your location and direction of travel to others.
Rewards beyond the horizon
The rewards of venturing into this remote landscape are plentiful. The Ceduna Radio Astronomy Observatory, located near the track’s starting point, hints at the exceptional stargazing opportunities that await. Far from city lights, the night skies are simply breathtaking.
Beyond the stunning natural beauty, the Googs Track offers a rare opportunity to disconnect from the constant stimulation of modern life and reconnect with yourself. The vastness of the landscape and the unhurried pace create a unique sense of freedom and perspective.
Highlights
- The John “Goog” Denton and Martin “Dinger” Denton Memorial: A poignant reminder of the track’s origins, where travellers leave tokens of remembrance.
- Googs Lake Campground: A picturesque campsite with pristine red sand and a vast salt lake.
- Yellabinna Wilderness Protection Area: Home to diverse flora and fauna, including the vibrant Pink Mulla Mulla and the majestic Wedgetail Eagle.
- Mount Finke: A prominent peak offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
Completing your adventure
As you leave the Googs Track, the journey continues through the mining outpost of Tarcoola and on to Kingoonya. Here, you can refuel and refresh at the caravan park, and perhaps enjoy a meal at the charmingly nostalgic pub. Consider a side trip to the Gawler Ranges for another unique outback experience.
The Googs Track is a true outback adventure, offering a unique blend of challenge, natural beauty, and solitude. It’s a journey that will stay with you long after you return to civilization.
